Ram Cichlids
As a characteristic dwarf cichlid, and one of the most beautiful, let us examine Microgeophagus ramirezi. Rams measure between 2 and 2 12 inches in length. They get rather rounded, a shape that seems to be common to all mature dwarf cichlids. When in color they show all the hues and shades their distant relative the discus possesses. The only drawback is that they are very shy and timid. At the slightest shadow or loud noise, they hide in the vegetation. Breeding color is normally prevalent most of the year, provided the fish are supplied continually with live food. They seem to be especially partial to tubifex, though too much tubifex is too rich a diet for any fish. It is better to feed tubifex two or three times a week, with intermittent feedings of whiteworms, daphnia, and brine shrimp.
You may have either a few inches of sand (deeper than for other cichlids) or no sand at all. On top of the sand, if you use it, there should be placed a few pieces of slate about 2 or 3 inches square. These are the slates on which the fish will deposit their spawn. In one corner of the tank you should have some thick vegetation. If possible, keep the tank covered with paper so that shadows of people walking by will not disturb the fish.
The ram is bred similarly to the other cichlids. A few males (the first three black spines of the dorsal fin are much longer than those of the female) should be placed in a 10-gallon tank with a few females. Natural selection should get at least one pair from three or four fish. As soon as the rams have paired off, you will note that the pair will stay much to themselves in a corner, keeping the other fish away. At this time remove all the unmated fish, leaving the pair to themselves.
If the fish are properly mated, they should show small white breeding tubes prior to spawning. Plenty of tubifex should be left around the tank with the appearance of these tubes. When the fish have spawned, remove the slates to a tank—from 3 gallons upward, the larger the better—to which has been added one drop of methylene blue per gallon of water. The water need be only the same temperature as that from which the eggs were removed, from 75° to 85° F. The eggs hatch in three days at 80° F. Keep a light on the eggs at all times so the bluish dye will be decomposed—in about five days—and the water will again be transparent. The young fish should be supplied with infusoria the first week. As soon as they are free-swimming, they should be given newly hatched brine shrimp and microworms and should be kept on this live food for four weeks. The young fish mature at six months.
One of the most beautiful cichlids from the African continent is Pelvicachromis pulcher, the krib. They do very well on the diet and care recommended for M. ramirezi, but seem to go one step further when it comes to hiding their eggs from sight. A very useful thing in the spawning aquarium is an ordinary clay flowerpot with a piece broken out of the rim. This is stood on its open end in such a manner that the fish can swim in and out of the opening. They soon learn to accept this as their "home," but one day you will notice that the male, which is more than twice the size of the little female, is ejected every time he tries to gain entrance. Take him out and put him into another tank when this happens, or you will have a male that may soon be badly beaten up. The female, who of course is guarding eggs, will put in an appearance in about a week's time, herding a brood of fry. This is a good time to take her out as well and leave the youngsters to their own devices. Many breeders prefer to leave the female in for a week or two, but there is the danger that at any time the young might be eaten.
All the Nannacara and Apistogramma should be treated the same way as the ram.
